2002 Vidovich Vineyards "Monte Bello Road" Cabernet Sauvignon

Stephen John Vidovich was a prominent local real estate developer and founder of DeAnza Properties. In the late 1990s he planted 5.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in front of his home high on Monte Bello Road and founded Vidovich Vineyards. Early vintages were made at the old Fetzer facility in Redwood Valley until the winery was completed in 2004. The vineyards are managed by Stephen Dorcich. Some of the fruit was sold to the nearby Picchetti Winery until 2005. When Mr Vidovich died in 2007 the family said that the winery would continue.

Vidovich still has no web site; sales of around 500 cases a year are direct to a limited number of trade outlets. I first discovered the wine on the list at a Cuban restaurant in San Jose and subsequently purchased some from Unwined in San Jose.

When I first tried the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon a couple of years ago I remember it had lovely fruit with chocolate notes; there was also plenty of structure that ought to repay cellaring, so I stashed a few bottles away. On Thursday night I opened one and was surprised to find it locked down tight. The nose was oak, oak and more oak; with time some herbs and lavender emerged. The palate was a wall of harsh tannin and acidity; no fruit at all. I recorked the half empty bottle and left it overnight.

On day 2 the nose had softened and hints of black fruits were emerging. The tannin wall had broken down a little, revealing some nice currant and cranberry fruit. I shall let the remaining bottles sleep a while longer. I'm not going to give a rating to this wine as I don't think it's fair. Paid $20 from Unwined, with a 10% discount for 6.

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